Price check on a 306 D-Turbo Radiator

Hi

My radiator on my (1996) P Reg 306 D-Turbo has started corroding at the
bottom and I'm loosing water, so time for a replacement.

Does anyone one know price wise what I should be paying for a genuine
Peugeot one and 3rd party one etc.


Also is it worth having it fitted or are they easy to fit?


Thanks in advance

Peter

 

I replaced mine a while ago and the radiator was £85 though
that was from a family member with a parts shop. It was the
same make as the original and I think he said it should have been
£110. (Can't remember the make offhand)

As for fitting it......Nightmare! The main problem was with getting
the compression pipe on the right hand side of the car back on with
the limited room available. You have to use a large screwdriver to
prise the pipe so it pops onto the join. It took me ages to do
but that was my first try at a pug radiator (and hopefully my last!)

Make sure you bleed it correctly as the engine does tend to airlock.

Hope that helps

Konichiwa

 

Just had a quote from my local garage of £140 supply and fit.
Peugeot dealer wants £285 supply and fit.

I would interested what other people have paid.

Thanks again

Peter

 

That's not a bad price - you'd expect to be paying £100 - 120 just for the
rad, and it is a bit of a pig to do (bottom hose is an utter Ba$£&rd to get
on and off) - you'll need a couple of hours, some elastoplast and a good
vocabulary of swear words to get it done. For £140 I'd let the garage do
it.

 

I'd definitely pay the £140 as I wouldn't want to do that job again.

 

I've changed the radiator on my 1995 XTdt twice. The first was about 4
years ago and I got the new radiator from a local radiator specialist.
Cost about £140 but looked identical to the original peugeot radiator.
Unfortunately, the radiator only lasted until Feb this year so I had
to source another. This time I ordered online from Andy's Spares (now
called GSF Car Parts at http://www.gsfcarparts.com/). That cost £80 +
£6.95 delivery + VAT. Can't complain about that and the radiator looks
fine.

I fit both myself. That lower bayonet radiator connection is the
problem. When fitting my first radiator I was able to get it
connected. Second time I just couldn't - ended up having to let a
local garage bail me out. A little embarrasing. I've since learnt that
the trick is to make the bayonet connection BEFORE fitting the
radiator in it's correct position. I've not tried this myself but a
couple of people I know who have say this made it much easier.

As other posters have mentioned, do make sure you bleed all the air
out when refilling with coolant.

My website at www.radox.freeserve.co.uk/306.htm describes my radiator
changing experiences to date along with a helpful diagram of the
radiator connections.

Hope that helps,
Stuart
http://www.radox.freeserve.co.uk/306.htm

 

Hi Stuart

Thanks for your info, don't really seeing me keeping the car much longer so
If It lasts four years then that would be great.

How do you bleed the radiator? just in case the garage don't do it.

Cheers

Peter

 

There are 3 bleed screws at various high-level points in the cooling
system under the bonnet. One is at the top of the radiator, I think
another is near the bulkhead - behind the intercooler and the third I
think is on the right hand side near the battery if I recall.

To do it properly you are supposed to create a temporary header tank
over the top of the radiator cap and fill this with coolant. This
ensures that as air is released from the system, new coolant is sucked
in. I found an old coolant bottle turned upside down onto the
radiator's opening did the trick. Saying that, I've seen garages not
bother with the header tank and just keep topping up.

As the engine is running and the coolant is heating up, just keep
releasing the bleed screws in turn and let any air out. When the
cooling fan cuts in (be careful of this) you can seal the system but
do keep an eye on the coolant temperature guage for a few days.

Hope that helps,
Stuart
http://www.radox.freeserve.co.uk/306.htm