Peugeot 306 (95) relays

Discussion in 'Peugeot 306' started by Rexx Magnus, Nov 8, 2007.

  1. Rexx Magnus

    Rexx Magnus Guest

    I've recently bought a 1995 306 XTdt and am having a few problems
    with it.

    In trying to diagnose why the heating blower doesn't work, I'm
    finding a few other things wrong with it, and until my haynes manual
    arrives, I don't know why certain things are disconnected.

    Firstly, there's a relay missing from the box under the bonnet, it's
    the one on the left nearest the front (grey connector) - not sure
    what that's supposed to do but it's totally missing. There are no
    grey ones in the car itself to compare it to, so therefore don't
    know what to replace it with.

    Secondly, there are two cables plugged into the rubber panel on that
    casing (that has no wiring in it - the plugs are red and black I
    think, from memory - both wires are white), and two cables below
    that are not connected to anything (blue and yellow). Should those
    cables that are in the rubber panel be connected to the open
    connectors instead?

    One of the relays in the box (I think it's the second from the left)
    has a wire spliced to the central pin and runs to the headlight.
    Don't know why that's been done.

    I can't pair the new key I bought to the alarm system as the master
    key is switched off, and doesn't match the ignition keys. Doh!

    Back to the heating problem, I'm suspecting that the resistor block
    has blown, which is why the fan has been wired up direct to a switch
    on the ignition. The rear heated windscreen works though - which
    apparently is often connected to the blower circuitry.
    Do the heating controls illuminate? If so, they're not lighting up.
    I fiddled around with the back of it and found that the blower
    controls were not connected, so I plugged it back in, but still no
    joy - hence suspecting the resistors.

    Two wires that hang down under the console near the heater had been
    cut off, red and black - I think they're the power leads to the
    heater, but connecting them to it still don't give power from the
    controls. I haven't accessed the resistor block in order to change
    it yet, so that could still be at fault. Is it easier to access it
    from the cab, or from outside by taking off the covers?

    Sorry for all the problems in my first post, but I'm desperate! :)
    Rexx Magnus, Nov 8, 2007
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  2. Rexx Magnus

    Rexx Magnus Guest

    Managed to find and remove the resistor block noted above. Inside
    the opening above the flap (removing motor to reach it). Taking out
    the top glove compartment, I was able to squeeze my hand in just far
    enough to unplug the connector and rotate the block a quarter turn,
    dropping it down into the blower.

    One of the resistors fails continuity test (it's the actual resistor
    rather than one of the coils) so I take this to be the cause of the
    heater malfunction.
    Rexx Magnus, Nov 8, 2007
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  3. Rexx Magnus

    harvestmouse Guest

    The resistor is not a resistor but a temperature sensitive fuse. The
    coils are cooled by air sucked over them by the motor blades. If the
    baffle closes when the fan blower is energised there will be no air
    flow and the fuse will blow. This happened to be because the bowden
    cable to the baffle fell off. I have been told that the fuse was
    fitted because some cars caught fire. The coil unit is less than £10
    from Peugeot. I accessed my coil assembly from under the bonnet by
    pulling the black plastic water protector out after getting the
    windscreen trim off with the wpiers in mid position.
    I had another fault with the blower circuit which was that the relay
    above the drivers legs had melted causing a bad connection from the
    relay to the holder. Again I replaced the relay, after levering out
    with a jemmy, which was less than £10 from Peugeot.
    harvestmouse, Nov 9, 2007
  4. Rexx Magnus

    Rexx Magnus Guest

    I had a water leak when it rained, whilst I had the blower motor out
    - I think this must have contributed to it. The old blower motor was
    squeaky, and there was some corrosion on the old resistor block. It
    looks like the cable for the flap is bent, so it won't close (or
    open properly) - so I've opted to leave it in the open position for
    The water cover wasn't on properly, part of it was folded under (on
    the top side) so water was running down into the cab through the
    inlet. Fixed that now. The heating doesn't get very hot still, so I
    suspect a blocked matrix (fun to fix!)

    I also found there wasn't a thermostat, only half of it was in the
    thermostat housing, so I replaced it with a new one. At least the
    engine gets up to temperature now.
    Rexx Magnus, Nov 12, 2007
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