How to straighten steering wheel on 405

Discussion in 'Peugeot 405' started by 405 TD Estate, Dec 5, 2005.

  1. I know it's done through adjusting the lengths of the steering arm rods
    (coming from the rack). -

    I can see the end of the rods (ball joint / hub end) seems just to go
    onto a threaded shaft - with no lock nut. The arm coming out from the
    rack has a locknut (onto the threaded bar) but I can't see a way to
    turn either the threaded bar, or the arm coming out of the rack.

    So how do you adjust it?

    Are there any good methods to get the steering wheel straight 1st time
    - or is it a case of adjuct it then drive it and repeat until happy?
     
    405 TD Estate, Dec 5, 2005
    #1
  2. Unless you have the necessary gear to measure front wheel tracking, you
    don't. Take it to a garage or tyre fitter that you trust and get them to
    have a good look at it and find out why this state of affairs has arisen.
    On the way there stick a bit of masking tape on the wheel near the top at
    the straight ahead position and then mark the actual straight ahead on it
    with pencil or similar so that you know where straight ahead is after you
    have manouvered it into the track setting bay.

    See above.

    Have you just bought this car?

    Ron Robinson
     
    R.N. Robinson, Dec 5, 2005
    #2
  3. 405 TD Estate

    G Cadman Guest

    You could do this yourself, but National Tyres do it with equipment that it
    would take a monkey to get it wrong.
    Only costs £22. Free check as well.

    Regards
    G
     
    G Cadman, Dec 5, 2005
    #3
  4. 405 TD Estate

    Brian Guest

    Trouble is, they do often employ monkeys. I had a "free" check and was told
    it had to be adjusted, so I had to pay. I was asked to take it back a month
    later. It was then checked by another person, and found to be way out. He
    put it back to where it was originally.
    My daughter had her tracking done 6 months ago, and has just had to have 2
    new tyres fitted, they were both bald on the inside edge. I trust myself, it
    doesn't matter how good or high tech the equipment is, it's all down to the
    human interface in the end.
    I bought a 106 with front tyres completely knackered on the inside edges,
    steel threads showing. I reset the tracking, and the new tyres have hardly
    worn since, after 20k. It is actually very simple as long as you know the
    principle involved, the figures required, and are very careful.
    Brian.
     
    Brian, Dec 5, 2005
    #4
  5. I think the tracking is actually OK - tyre wear is even steering feels
    fine and is doesn't weave on bumps, side wind or the motorway. So I was
    just going to add X number of turns to one side of the rack and take it
    away from the other to straighten the wheel without changing the
    tracking.
    I'd prefer to learn how to do this sort of stuff myself and it's not
    only cheaper but quicker and easier as well i can do it in 1/2 - 1 hour
    at home after work which is a lot easier than taking it to a garage for
    me.

    Ian
     
    405 TD Estate, Dec 6, 2005
    #5
  6. 405 TD Estate

    Brian Guest

    How far out is the wheel. Remember that it fits onto splines on the end of
    the steering column, you might just need to take it off, and replace it one
    spline round.
    If it is only half a spline out, then yes, alter each track rod by exactly
    the same amount, max one turn, and try it.
     
    Brian, Dec 6, 2005
    #6
  7. Both track rods should be as near as dammit the same length - it would be
    worth checking this before deciding to adjust these or move the steering
    wheel.
    Be very careful removing the wheel, they come off awfully suddenly when they
    do come, so don't have your face in the way....

    Ron Robinson
     
    R.N. Robinson, Dec 6, 2005
    #7
  8. The trick is to undo the nut, then put it back on with a couple of
    threads, so that the wheel has room to come off the splines, but doesn't
    clonk you in the teeth. Of course, this occurred to me *after* I first
    tried it...
     
    Albert T Cone, Dec 6, 2005
    #8
  9. I think its only ten degrees out or so, so I wont get is straight
    moving the wheel on the splines. I was wondering how you adjust the rod
    ends? Perhaps it'll be clearer when I'm sat there with the wheel off.
     
    405 TD Estate, Dec 9, 2005
    #9
  10. 405 TD Estate

    Brian Guest

    There are two parts to the track rod system. The end which has the ball
    joint, and the rod which comes out of the steering rack. one screws inside
    the other, and there is a locking nut to prevent it moving. On the rod which
    comes out of the rack, you will see flats on it so that you can get a
    spanner on it. First of all release the lock nut, then screw the rod into,or
    out of the track rod end, remembering the number of turns, or par turns you
    make. The rod will turn inside the gaitor on the end of the rack. Tighten
    the lock nut when finished. Adjust both sides exactly the same amount, as
    said before, one in, one out.
    The whole thing might well be very tight to start with. Threads get
    corroded. Bit of WD40 sprayed on before you start will help.
    Brian.
     
    Brian, Dec 12, 2005
    #10
  11. Thanks Brian, I worked it out yesterday! Just the hex fixings on the
    bar which were difficult to see made it difficult to see how to turn
    it.

    Yup the threads on the nut (and one bar) were tight - in one case
    requiring the spanner to be jacked! (lots of WD40 applied and left)

    Surprisingly it only needed 1 turn each end to straighten - I would
    have thought it needed a lot more. The steering wheel was 10-20 deg
    out.

    Cheers Ian
     
    405 TD Estate, Dec 12, 2005
    #11
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