Cannot remove rear drum - 405 seized on?

My handbrake is very poor on this car so I wanted to check the
condition of the pads etc on the rear wheels.

Once I take the wheel off I cannot get the drum off. I have been able
to apply a reasonable amount of leverage to remove it via a claw hammer
and a brick to push against but it wont budge.

I've tried whacking it with a hammer (but not too hard as i fear i will
break the casting) and spraying wd40 in the stud holes in the hope that
some gets between the drum and its mounting.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is try reversing the car and
pulling the handbrake on really hard in the hope this may move the drum
relative to its mounting (I could try it forwards as well)but I'm
sceptical this will work.

Thanks for your help if you know how to do this.

Ian

 

I take it that you have let the hand brake off while trying to remove the
drum,
The best thing to do is get yourself a rubber or copper mallet and hit the
drum all the round the edge again and again , it will come off sooner or
later.
I am not to sure about the 405 rear drum but i take it that they do not have
the large posi head screw holding the drum on.
Get rid of your claw hammer and dont spray wd40 near your brakes.

GGJ

 

DONT USE WD40 near your rear brakes.get behind the drum and tap it top
and bottom that will remove it.
good luck chris Addlestone surrey

 

Now that you have used WD40, you will have to carry on and then carefully
clean the brake linings with petrol to remove WD40, or the brakes will not
work again. Though, to be honest, replacement brake shoues are quite cheap,
so you would be well advised to fit new anyway. Just clean the inside of the
drum carefully. AND WATCH THE DUST!
However, the WD40 will help to release it. The bit which is catching is the
centre where the drum fits over the hub.
With the wheel off, and handbrake released, get a blowlamp into the drum and
heat it up as quickly as you can, as evenly as you can too. This will have
the effect of expanding the drum slightly, and then with a few blows with a
large rubber mallet, you should be able to loosen it.

 

Thanks for the info - some good tips there i'll give it a try. I put
the wheel back on and the brakes seemed fine the WD40 shouldn't have
got near the inside of the drum / pads.

I can't get to the back of the drum to hit it - there's a pressed metal
disk in the way which encloses the pads

I can get to the side to hit it though - I may give that a try.

Regarding WATCH THE DUST - I assume it wont be asbestos - is it still
dangerous?

Regards

Ian

 

Hi I assume you poked a screwdriver through the hole in the backplate to
let the auto adusting mech. Off ? if the drum is worn with a lip on the
edge you'll never get it it off unless you realease the adjustment

 

Can u get a puller in there?

 

Basically, if the drum is worn at all (i.e. if you have done more than
a few thousand miles since new drums were fitted) you will have a
great deal of trouble getting the handbrake self-adjuster to come off
sufficiently to let the drums move past the brake linings.

Do not use any form of lubricant (especially WD40) anywhere near
brakes.

The only way I have managed this job is to first release the handbrake
fully in the car, undo the handbrake cable adjuster from under the car
completely, then release the brake self-adjuster through the holes in
the backplates (Note that the Haynes manual is incorrect in describing
this operation). A small torch helps to let you see the self-adjuster
ratchet. Now use a couple of long screwdrivers to pry the drum away
from the backplate on opposite sides. Then tap the drum carefully with
a copper mallet (don't use a steel hammer or you'll likely crack the
drum, and don't hit it too hard or you'll distort it making the brakes
snatch) during which you should see the drum ease it's way off. Three
or four hands helps!

Be prepared to take a long time on this job (like a full day.....),
and buy new brake shoes and adjuster mechanisms before you start
because you'll need them. My favourite approach to this one job is to
take the car to my local garage. Let them sweat a bit.

HTH
Richard

 

And pay there prices, when he can have a go his self, if you take it to
a garage it will be £38 per hour and thats before they have looked at
it.and priced up for the parts,
so give it a go your self before u give up. from chri Addlestone Surrey

 

I've pulled quite a few drums off cars before and never had one seized
like this. Normally a bit of leverage and a couple of taps with a
hammer loosens the drum and then you can fight with it to pull the drum
past the pads - even when the drum is well worn they normally pull off
OK.

The problem seems to be the drum is corroded onto the hub and will not
move at all. The drum spins OK on the hub so I dont think the pads are
so tight they are stopping me move the drum initially.

I was thinking I could get another jack and apply some pressure that
way which may do it.

There's no way I can see to get a puller in - and I dont have a puller

 

Soak it with plus gas....leave it for half an hour. If that doesn't work
then get some gentle heat on the drum with a torch.

 

Just stating the obvious, but you have undone the big hub nut in the
centre of the drum? (you'll probably have to prize a little metal cover
out of the way first) - That's assuming that the 405 is like most other
peugeots in that the drum is held on by the hub nut - as the drum is
also the hub as well on these cars

James

 

Hi James,

My 405 has a separate drum and is not part of the hub (1995 GLX 1.8i). I
think it is only the smaller pugs that have the one piece drum/hubs that you
mention.

Bob

 

I think it it 2 parts because
a) there is a little screw to hold the drum in place (relative to the
hub) before you put the wheel on / wheel nuts on
b) the wheel nuts go through the drum (unthreaded) and into the hub
(threaded) so these hold the drum on securely.

Good thought though....