Broken bleed screw

Mr.Chaos

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Hi,

When I was trying to bleed my braking system on my Peugoet 306 (1994) the bleed-screw of the wheel-cylinder on the left-rear side broke. I tried to remove the remaining part of the bleed-screw with a "stuck bolt/screw extractor", but this snapped off as well. Does anybody know how to fix this problem, besides from fitting a new wheel-cylinder? And does anybody have any hints on how to slacken the remaining bleeding-screws without breaking them?

Thanks,

Peter
 
Hi,

When I was trying to bleed my braking system on my Peugoet 306 (1994) the bleed-screw of the wheel-cylinder on the left-rear side broke. I tried to remove the remaining part of the bleed-screw with a "stuck bolt/screw extractor", but this snapped off as well. Does anybody know how to fix this problem, besides from fitting a new wheel-cylinder? And does anybody have any hints on how to slacken the remaining bleeding-screws without breaking them?

Thanks,

Peter

You're only choice now IS a new wheel cylinder. As for the remaining ones, try a bit of heat on the nipple, from a hairdryer or, better, a hot air gun. As it's a very tight fit in the cylinder or caliper, WD40 doesn't seem to penetrate. If the nipple does start to move then go in both directions. Don't just try to remove it in one go. Undo, do up, undo a bit more, do up,etc. Then you can try WD40, and heat together. This usually works for me, unless they;'re really seized. Good luck. New wheel cylinders from Peugeot are about 30 pounds I think.
 
I cross threaded a blead screw socket, only option was to fit a new cylinder. Not a very difficult job though,

Neil

"Mr.Chaos" wrote:

Hi,

When I was trying to bleed my braking system on my Peugoet 306 (1994) the bleed-screw of the wheel-cylinder on the left-rear side broke. I tried to remove the remaining part of the bleed-screw with a "stuck bolt/screw extractor", but this snapped off as well. Does anybody know how to fix
this
problem, besides from fitting a new wheel-cylinder? And does anybody have any hints on how to slacken the remaining bleeding-screws without breaking them?

Thanks,

Peter
 
Nigel said:
You're only choice now IS a new wheel cylinder. As for the remaining ones, try a bit of heat on the nipple, from a hairdryer or, better, a hot air gun. As it's a very tight fit in the cylinder or caliper, WD40 doesn't seem to penetrate. If the nipple does start to move then go in both directions. Don't just try to remove it in one go. Undo, do up, undo a bit more, do up,etc. Then you can try WD40, and heat together. This usually works for me, unless they;'re really seized. Good luck. New wheel cylinders from Peugeot are about 30 pounds I think.

Don't buy things like this from PUG. Motor factors will have perfectly good parts for far less money.
 
Don't buy things like this from PUG. Motor factors will have perfectly good parts for far less money.
you should be able to get them fitted for £30 per side
i think there £18 for non pug parts.

simon ds
 
My bleeding nipple is above the pipe union. Won't there be air left in the system when bleeding like this, or do you have to remove the cylinder and turn it until the pipe union is on top with the pipe still connected??

Thanx,
Peter
 
You're only choice now IS a new wheel cylinder. As for the remaining ones, try a bit of heat on the nipple, from a hairdryer or, better, a hot air gun. As it's a very tight fit in the cylinder or caliper, WD40 doesn't seem to penetrate. If the nipple does start to move then go in both directions. Don't just try to remove it in one go. Undo, do up, undo a bit more, do up,etc. Then you can try WD40, and heat together. This usually works for me, unless they;'re really seized. Good luck. New wheel cylinders from Peugeot are about 30 pounds I think.

24.99 each from Halfords, but Im sure you can get them cheaper elsewhere (but not at 7.30pm with an MOT the next day)
 
Ryan said:
£24.99 each from Halfords, but Im sure you can get them cheaper elsewhere (but not at 7.30pm with an MOT the next day)

£12 plus vat from http://www.parts4peugeot.com. you have to add postage but by buying a modest stock of consumables, you can spread this cost. Fast service too - no commercial connection just a very satisfied customer!

Bob
 
iair wont have got to that part yet so you can bleed up to the union,the small amount of "dirty" fluid left will mix in with clean,not perfect but only alternative is new cylinder
 
Mr.Chaos said:
Hi,

When I was trying to bleed my braking system on my Peugoet 306 (1994) the bleed-screw of the wheel-cylinder on the left-rear side broke. I tried to remove the remaining part of the bleed-screw with a "stuck bolt/screw extractor", but this snapped off as well. Does anybody know how to fix this problem, besides from fitting a new wheel-cylinder? And does anybody have any hints on how to slacken the remaining bleeding-screws without breaking them?

Thanks,

Peter

Is there any way at all to remove these bloody screws. They broke on both rear callipers on my 205 & I really don't want to fork out for 2 recon ones. Rear axles for these are like golddust so I doubt I'd find any scrapped.

As for slackening the remaining bleed screws, I use (anymore) an 8mm socket to slacken them, a wrench puts pressure sideways and they sheer more easily. Theres still a chance of them breaking though.

Ollie
 
Does anybody know how to fix this
You're only choice now IS a new wheel cylinder. As for the remaining ones, try a bit of heat on the nipple, from a hairdryer or, better, a hot air gun.

It's probably wise to replace the one on the other side at the same time to avoid any imbalance in braking effect
 

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