306 central locking wires replacement

Discussion in 'Peugeot 306' started by J, Dec 8, 2004.

  1. J

    J Guest

    Its central locking bounce time again and the wires from the connector on
    the drivers side door (that cause central locking bounce when broken) have
    been re-soldered too many times and are now quite short. I need to fit a
    new connector and wires.

    Has anyone here replaced this connector and wiring before ?

    Do all of the wires go down to the fuse box area near the accelerator pedal?
    How did you feed the wires through the hole in the door jam down to the fuse
    area ?
    Where is the hole where the wires re-enter the inside of the car ? (near the
    fuse box ?) How do you get to it ?

    Can you do it without removing the door ?

    Thanks.
     
    J, Dec 8, 2004
    #1
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  2. J

    Nigel Guest

    To answer your questions.
    There is enough length in the wires to go down to the sill, where the
    main loom is for the door, but I don't do that. You do need to remove
    the door (just two bolts for the check strap and one bolt on each
    hinge, then lift off).
    On the new loom there are numbers, 1 to (I think) 23. You may not have
    all these on your car. You need a continuity tester. One by one cut
    the wires about an inch from the grommet and with the tester identify
    which pin number it goes to. (If you look at the plug you can just see
    the first and last number in each row---the first row is 1 to 3, the
    second row is 4 to 8, and so on) Make a note on paper of colour of
    wire and pin number. If two wires are the same colour then it's likely
    they will be different sizes (I just write down small, medium and
    large). Pull the grommet off the loom and put on the new loom down by
    the plug. Then join the wires to the new plug having first cut the
    wires to the same length plus 2 inches. It's easiest to use Raychem
    connectors, then heat shrink them. Any wires not used just cut about
    an inch shorter than the others and tape them up. They won't be live.
    Rehang the door temporarily, connect the plug, and test the various
    functions. Remove the door and using insulation tape, bind the loom
    tightly all the way to the plug. then push the excess loom into the
    body so that it loops downwards so any water will drip off the bottom
    of the loop. Put the grommet back in to place and rehang the door with
    the bolts and connect the plug. Hopefully all will now work. Good
    luck!
     
    Nigel, Dec 8, 2004
    #2
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  3. J

    Mindwipe Guest

    solder is less bulky though with shrink tube
    also get a chair in there its more comfy
     
    Mindwipe, Dec 10, 2004
    #3
  4. J

    Nigel Guest

    Yes, I only use Raychems because I'm a losy solderer!! And definitely
    use a chair. Stops the back aching.
     
    Nigel, Dec 11, 2004
    #4
  5. Must be the time of year; mine's started doing the exact same thing last
    week.

    French electrics... :-/
     
    southpawArcher, Dec 12, 2004
    #5
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