306 BE3 transmission clutch lever

Discussion in 'Peugeot 306' started by harvestmouse, Sep 26, 2007.

  1. harvestmouse

    harvestmouse Guest

    How do you get the locking pin out. Mine is threaded. I have tried
    winding on a 7 mm nut but the thread has stripped. Help.
     
    harvestmouse, Sep 26, 2007
    #1
  2. harvestmouse

    Brian Guest

    I've never had to remove the pin, or dismantle the lever mechanism. Why do
    you have to?
     
    Brian, Sep 27, 2007
    #2
  3. harvestmouse

    harvestmouse Guest

    It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at
    Peugeot who says it need to rotate almost 90 degrees to disengage the
    forks from the bearing. I got the nut off and then tried rust
    dissolver and pulling/ twisting with mole grips. This didn't work so
    I tried heating with a blow torch. This didn't work either but now I
    think the upper plastic bearing will have melted.
     
    harvestmouse, Sep 28, 2007
    #3
  4. harvestmouse

    Brian Guest

    It says so in the Haynes manual! I have also asked a mechanic at
    Don't know if they changed the design, but I did a clutch on an early 306
    TD, and did not need to touch the lever. It moved enough as you pulled the
    box away.
     
    Brian, Sep 29, 2007
    #4
  5. harvestmouse

    harvestmouse Guest

    I think you could be correct Brian. I had to put it all back together
    again and take it to someone who tried to heat it up with OxyAcetylene
    but this failed and he had to drill / punch the pin out. We put in a
    tempory bolt to get me home. When I got it all apart again and managed
    to separate the gearbox, the shaft hardly rotated as the release
    bearing is only just caught on the very ends of the forks.
    It turned out that the friction plate was fine, the release bearing
    was fine, and there was slight wear on the cover plate fingers because
    it was all very dry. I replaced all 3 parts and the clutch appears to
    be slightly different. The Haynes manual says the BE3 is a pull type
    clutch but the release bearing pushes on the cover plate fingers (the
    cable pulls on the lever). At least GSF sold me the correct clutch
    kit.
    I have written this clutch change up as it took me around 50 hours to
    replace it. With the extra tools I had to buy, I still saved about
    £125 over Mr Clutch.
     
    harvestmouse, Oct 8, 2007
    #5
  6. harvestmouse

    Brian Guest

    I think you could be correct Brian. I had to put it all back together
    again and take it to someone who tried to heat it up with OxyAcetylene
    but this failed and he had to drill / punch the pin out. We put in a
    tempory bolt to get me home. When I got it all apart again and managed
    to separate the gearbox, the shaft hardly rotated as the release
    bearing is only just caught on the very ends of the forks.
    It turned out that the friction plate was fine, the release bearing
    was fine, and there was slight wear on the cover plate fingers because
    it was all very dry. I replaced all 3 parts and the clutch appears to
    be slightly different. The Haynes manual says the BE3 is a pull type
    clutch but the release bearing pushes on the cover plate fingers (the
    cable pulls on the lever). At least GSF sold me the correct clutch
    kit.
    I have written this clutch change up as it took me around 50 hours to
    replace it. With the extra tools I had to buy, I still saved about
    £125 over Mr Clutch.

    The worst part is getting the gearbox back on. It never seems to want to
    line up properly for me.
     
    Brian, Oct 8, 2007
    #6
  7. harvestmouse

    harvestmouse Guest

    I had no problem at all. I positioned the friction plate centrally by
    eye and the gearbox shaft just slid in first time. I am now in doubt
    if it is a BE3 transmission or a push type clutch.
    I have bought a cam belt but the Peugeot mechanic said you have to
    take the bottom pullry off and that is done up to some stupid lbft and
    loctited in. I don't think I can face it at the moment.
     
    harvestmouse, Oct 9, 2007
    #7
  8. harvestmouse

    Brian Guest

    I had no problem at all. I positioned the friction plate centrally by
    eye and the gearbox shaft just slid in first time. I am now in doubt
    if it is a BE3 transmission or a push type clutch.
    I have bought a cam belt but the Peugeot mechanic said you have to
    take the bottom pullry off and that is done up to some stupid lbft and
    loctited in. I don't think I can face it at the moment.
    I think when they refer to a pull type clutch, they are talking about how
    the lever is operated by the cable.
    On some, the inner pulls the lever, on some, the inner is fixed to a
    bracket, and the outer pushes the lever.
    Regarding the cam belt, which engine is it?
    I have only done belt changes on the XUD engines, and recently an HDI.
    Yes the crankshaft bolt can be very tight, I have ended up using a lever
    about 3 feet long.
    On the old 306 I did recently, I could not shift it at all, so I ended up
    breaking the lower cover at the bottom, and removing it. Then I was able to
    get the old belt off round the larger aux belt pulley. The lower cover went
    back on OK, and provided the two bolts are cone up, it stays in place even
    though it is broken.
    Consider changing the water pump while you have the belt off.
     
    Brian, Oct 9, 2007
    #8
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.